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The Librarian

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Food & Cooking Article · 2 min read

Worth Driving Across Town For, at Tacos Fita

Tacos Fita is a food truck in a cart pod on SE Woodstock Blvd in Portland, Oregon, and the carne asada taco there is the best in the region — five out of five. The pickled red onions on top make it, and the habanero sauce is no joke.

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Food & Cooking Article · 4 min read

The Correct Way to Eat Pho, at Pho Hung

Most people never learn the actual mechanics of eating a bowl of pho — what the little cup of onion and vinegar is for, or how to build the bite. Five out of five at Pho Hung on 82nd in Portland, Oregon, and here's the method.

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Food & Cooking Article · 4 min read

The Cheapest Tacos on the Planet (Possibly Not Beef)

A Friday-night run to the Jack in the Box on NE 117th in Vancouver, Washington — decent fast food, three out of five, the honest kind of meal you eat because you're busy rather than because you're excited about it. The Sourdough Jack earns its keep. The two tacos might be the cheapest food on the pl

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Food & Cooking Article · 7 min read

The Best Bolognese Since France, at Chuckie Pies

I went back to Chuckie Pies in Lake Oswego for the pizza I had been bookmarking since July, and came away talking about the rigatoni Bolognese instead. Ten-inch Neapolitan pies out of a wood oven, a seriously Italian wine list with a Barbaresco on it, and the best Bolognese I have had since the sout

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Food & Cooking Article · 5 min read

The Time It Beat In-N-Out, at Habit

A free Double Char that showed up in the app for my birthday, a surfboard bolted to a brick wall two thousand miles from the nearest one, and the honest case — onion rings and spicy ranch included — for why Habit edges out my beloved In-N-Out, strictly at the fast-food level.

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Food & Cooking Article · 1 min read

The Mild Fish Sauce, at Broken Rice

Broken Rice is a Vietnamese cart off 82nd Avenue in Portland, Oregon, serving grilled pork over com tam — broken rice — with a fish sauce that's milder than expected and genuinely good. Five stars, indoor seating if it's raining, worth the drive despite the block it's on.

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Food & Cooking Article · 2 min read

Dress It Yourself, at Philly Bilmos

Philly Bilmos is a cheesesteak shop in Vancouver, Washington, and the sandwich that got five stars here wasn't the cheesesteak — it was the Italian sub, dressed at the table with its own oil, vinegar and parmesan. The best one I've had.

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Food & Cooking Article · 1 min read

Worth Crossing the River For, at Saburo's

Saburo's Sushi House in Portland's Sellwood neighborhood is a once-or-twice-a-year drive across the river, and the Seared Salmon is the reason. Five stars, huge portions, prices that aren't terrible for what shows up on the plate.

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